Friday, 20 May 2011

Panelling and skirting

For the skirting we cut 12mm thick wood 20cm wide by 8foot long and 15cm wide blocks of 6mm wood to slot behind them.
We placed three block of the 6mm strips of wood in the corner the middle and end of the length of 20cm by 8foot length of wood so it pushed it way from the flats to make i look more like a real peace of skirting, but the wood in front of the blocks making sure the block at the end of the wood would have half of the block showing, then pushed a sheet of MDF under the length of wood so there would be a gap for when the flooring is put down.

Then drilled the 20cm by 8 wood into the block and into the flat and with the middle we drilled into the wood were there way a join, so we went through a thick part in the wood.
And we did this all the way around the flats cutting them to size.

For the panelling we started with 15cm wide by 8foot strips of 12mm wood placed on top of the 20cm wood and drilled them to the flats.

Then to put the upright panels on we cut the the 15cm by 8foot wide wood in to 15cm by 40cm cut out the size of the panel.
Then we counter sunk the 15-40 strips of wood so when we drilled them to the flats the nails wouldn't pock out, placed the strip of wood on top of the 15-8 wood into the corner drilled it to the flats then placed the panel size sheet next to it and placed another 15-40 next to it all the way around the fats, but for the corner panels we found have to next to each other didn't look right so we cut the corner ones in half so they were 15-20 and drilled them in just like the 15-40 making them counter suck.

Then to for the top of the panelling we drilled 15-8 strips of wood onto of them, and to make sure that the drills holes didn't show we polly filled them over.

once we had filled all the holes and sanded them down smooth we started to paint for the base colour we made up a rich red the over that we painted in a dark brown then with a ruff brush we brushed it over to paint to create a wood effect then with a black painted in strong lines, making sure that we painted it on when the paint was wet, for the tops the the middle of the panels we painted them with the dark brown.

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Fire Place

To make the tiles shine we covered them over with gloss glaze, but we found that it didn't make them shine very well it gave them more of a matt finish, so they were covered over with a varnish which gave them a good layer of shine.
But we found it took a long time to dry on the tiles also we found when take photographs of them the flash would reflect off them, which wouldn't be very suitable for a film shot if it was based on that object with a'lot of different lighting.    

Once all the tiles dry we laid them down to create a design for each side we found putting the cat and the chicken next to each other was to much of a clash as they are very bold and strong as a single tile.

to glue them onto the the fire place we used (no more nails) using this was very useful because we could more the tiles if needed whist they were drying, we worked from the top to bottom in rows so if there was a gap at the end we could see to it at the bottom instead of the top of the fire place as it would be more difficult to change the top of it, we ended up running out of no more nails so we ended up using a hot glue gun which wasn't great to use as it dried strait away. 

once we had placing the tiles on to both sides we found a small gap on each side on the bottom so we are deciding on if we fill it with a beading of if we will make the bottom peace of wood slightly larger. 

Monday, 9 May 2011

   Desk Chair Take Two

As i needed to make the chair look used i used the original foam it came with as it is old and used, tacked each corner of the fabric to the plywood so it didn't move whilst i was stapling it. As the foam is much lower down it was easier to stable the back of the chair down with the staple gun where the wood points down, i stapled the back then the front and each side but to make it look used i pinched, scrunched and pulled also i stapled the fabric down rather loosely it some areas of the fabric.

Once the fabric was stapled down i cut around the seat to take off the excess fabric, and started to add the braiding around the edge of the fabric i stared at the back and worked my way around the seat  i stared it just be for the corner, to put the braiding on i could tack it on or glue i used tacks as it would be  stronger and as i had not done it before i could take them out if i made a mistake.

I lifted the curve of the braid place the tack were it lies hammer the tack in, then the tack will be coved over by the curve of the braid.

Where my Finger is is were the tack is >

I found when braiding the corners i needed to push a small amount of foam into the corner so that the braid would curve at the corner nicely, and so the staple didn't show through the braid i tack all the corners down with a green tack.

For the of the brad i trimmed each end of the braid tacked one side down then folding the other end and tacked it down, i folded it over so that it didn't fray.


Sunday, 8 May 2011


For the desk chair in the study i found a simple but fancy old  white chair.

Took off the fabric on the set, it was fulling apart with a wicker bottom set so to make it safer to sit on i

measured the top area of the chair and put the size onto a sheet of plywood, cut it out with a band saw and stapled it on to the top of the set, with a staple gun. 

I was going to sand the white paint off it, but i wasn't sure of what paint it was so i painted over it in covernt garden prim to make sure the when painting it the paint sticks, the colour of the wood we are using is mahogany, once the prim was dry i gave the chair a base colour of a slightly dark orange and whilst the base colour was still wet i started to paint lines of slightly watered down brown, i painted it whilst it was wet because it was easier blended the colours together and i could smooth them out to the lines weren't to sharp, when i went on to paint on thin strips of black paint but the black didn't make any different's so i diced not to add the black. 

once all the paint was dry i stared to re-upholster the set we diced on a very rich looking green, draw around the plywood onto a sheet of paper laid the paper onto a block of foam and draw the shape onto the it and cut it out with a knife.

cut the material into a square placed the foam onto the plywood and tacked each corner of the fabric over the foam, then with a staple gun i stapled the fabric to the back of the set it was rather difficult as there are pieces of wood pointing down so once i had stapled the fabric to the plywood i had to hammer down the staples as i couldn't push the gun down to the wood in some parts. Whilst going around stapling the fabric down i took away the tacks,  i went on the staple the front of the set making sure that i  pulled the fabric as firm and flat as i could so the fabric wasn't lose, then i stapled from side to side using the same technique as the front, for the corners of the fabric i looked at folding it to the front and to the back, and diced of folding it to the front as it looked better tacked them into place and stapled them down, when i was happy the fabric was was all in place i took out all the tacks.


After looking over the chair and making sure it could be sat on safely, i thought that i foam on the chair was to thick and the fabric on it didn't look like it had worn or been used, so i took off the fabric and took out the foam.

So i am going to re-upholst it again making sure i make it look used and weathered and i'm going to put a thinner foam onto the set.

Wednesday, 6 April 2011

Flats      April 5th 2011                                                                             PPE Goggles

Always start from one end of the timber, by making a mark ,

mesure the length of the 8foot stock making 2foot centres from marked end 2foot 4foot 6foot,

with both ends of the 8foot timber mark off the edge about 3cm in, then drill two holes under each other about 2-3cm apart.

Then with 5 4foot timber strips line them up on the drilled ends and in the centre of the 2foot 4foot and 6foot markings, screwing them together on markings making sure you start at the marked end,

this is so that the frame stays strait all the way around.

Then with pva glue over the top of the timber frame when lay the sheet of wood over it making sure all the corners are flush as you can get, then with a nail gun go along the top of the wood then down the left side of the frame to make an L shape, then to the right then the bottom of the out side of the frame,
Then mark the 2foot 4foot and 6foot centres of the frame by marking a line across the frame were the screws match up then nail across each line,

making the nails about 4inches from each other, and then make the floor end.



Tuesday, 5 April 2011


Heres some basic drawings i fond of big flowing draps the way they site to the side of the windows making it look like there is more space, i think would be good to look at !!


here is another image that can help when lighting the set for the photos the way the light if focused on one point in the middle of the set, drawing your eye towards it then making you look around it.

looking at sizes and styles of poffues


i have been looking at ways we can make the design for the chaise longue to work, looking at some of these chairs below i was thinking we could have the back flat and fret the design of the willow into it, and if we wanted to make it a bit more 3D we could go around the cut out parts with super sculpey, instead of carving it out as it would take a great mount of time to do so!

using the idea of the worn fabric.

there is not alot of carving into theses ones but the parts that are carved are very 3D pulling out alot of the detail. 


These are some ideas for wallpaper that pulled out of some  Willam Morris books 

willow would be good as a 
basic patten which also a since for death, this one i like because it looks like its creeping up the wall!! 

again willow but its much smother flowing down the wall !!

this could be useful if we wanted to do Repeating patten 

Thursday, 31 March 2011

These are more images i have found using lighting via lamps candle and window lighting

              This one below i find how the photograph has been taken have the left side in the light and the darkness to the right, with a little light from the fire quite a spooky atmosphere !!

Wednesday, 30 March 2011


i have pulled some images from a book (The Helsinki School vol.3 Young Photography By Taik)

Looking at how shadows and how colour are used!!

i liked the way that the inside of the open door is black.

using light onto an object making shadow and a dramatic effect !!

using a calm blue creating a lonely atmosphere

and using the red/pink creates more of a danger and fear to the rooms atmosphere

using the light from the window creating a moody and empty feeling within a room

this is not a realistic image but the use of black and white and white shadow helps the mood seem more spooky!!